A Grand Adventure in Victoria: From Gardens to Chinatown
- Vicky
- Jan 2
- 4 min read
This was our last port on our cruise. After two extra days at sea, we were ready to explore Victoria, Canada—a new country for me! Finally, Michael and I got out of the country together. We were originally scheduled to stay in this port for just four hours, but with the weather cutting two of our stops, we ended up having 16 hours to explore Victoria.
The Butchart Gardens
The Butchart Gardens was once a limestone quarry. In 1912, as the limestone deposits were exhausted, Jennie Butchart envisioned transforming the property into a beautiful garden. We had just over 90 minutes to explore, which wasn’t nearly enough time, but we managed to see most of the gardens, only missing the Mediterranean Garden.
Our first stop was the Sunken Garden, which left us awestruck. The vibrant colors, the sheer beauty, and the scale were amazing. The garden is set against the green-cloaked walls of the original quarry, with a small waterfall adding a gentle whisper in the background. It was hard not to stop at every single flower bed because each one was stunning.
We continued our journey through themed gardens, each as impressive as the last. The path led us to the graceful Ross Fountain, where water danced to and fro, and then to the peaceful Bog Garden. We passed the Rose Carousel, which features 30 hand-carved wooden animals, and strolled through rows of dahlias on our way to the Dragon Fountain. Along the way, we saw towering Coast Redwoods, which were planted in 1934—this was probably Beth’s favorite part.
Next, we entered the Rose Garden. Though not fully in bloom, it featured charming fountains, including a frog and a wishing well. My personal favorite was the Japanese Garden, where we walked through the grand Torii gate. The serene sounds of flowing water accompanied us along the path, and stepping stones led us to The Wharf, where we looked out over Butchart Cove.
We continued past Star Pond and into the Italian Garden, which had once been the Butchart family’s tennis court. This garden features a bronze statue of Mercury and a pond. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to try the gelato, much to Michael’s disappointment, as we were running out of time.
Craigdarroch Castle
Calling Craigdarroch a castle is a bit of a stretch—it’s more of a grand Victorian manor. Built between 1887 and 1890, it sits on a hill overlooking Victoria. It was owned by Robert and Joan Dunsmuir, and Joan lived in the castle until her death in 1908. The Dunsmuir fortune is reflected in the four floors, the exquisite stained glass windows, and the intricate woodwork and furnishings.
The house was impressive, and most rooms have been restored to reflect the Dunsmuir era. Some rooms, however, remain unrestored, offering a glimpse into the building’s past as a military hospital, college, and music conservatory. These rooms were fascinating, showing the work that’s gone into preserving this historic mansion. Historic photographs have helped guide the restoration to its former glory.
We found the history intriguing. Though Michael and I thought the castle had a lot in common with homes we’ve seen in Atchison, Kansas. Honestly, this stop was kind of a disappointment and we would have gladly had stayed at the gardens longer.
About Town
Michael and I did some geocaching—or rather, I did the geocaching, and Michael was more or less forced to join in and locate the geocache. We walked the Ogden Point Breakwater, which features the First Nations Breakwater Mural, honoring the history and traditions of the coastal Salish nations. It will eventually be the largest mural of its kind.
From there, we walked downtown, about 30 minutes from the cruise ship. We stopped at the Parliament Building, a neo-Baroque structure, and took a photo with the statue of Queen Victoria that stands out front. Diagonally across is The Empress Hotel, one of the oldest hotels in Victoria and quite grand. Both the Parliament Building and The Empress Hotel were designed by Francis Rattenbury, an architect who fudged his credentials. Despite this, his design won the competition to replace the old parliament buildings.
We wandered into the main shopping area, and my mission was to find a Victoria sweatshirt. Michael kept pointing out different hoodies, but none were what I had in mind. Eventually, I found the perfect one, and funnily enough, the bear outside the store was wearing the same sweatshirt!
After browsing a few more shops, we met up with Amber, Beth, and Hunter and headed to The Churchill for a quick drink. It’s a classic pub offering regionally inspired Canadian fare, craft beer, and whiskey. They were playing some strange selections on the TV, but Michael and I settled in with a beer and cider, respectively.
Next, Amber, Michael, and I ventured to Chinatown, while Beth and Hunter returned to the ship. Victoria’s Chinatown is the oldest in Canada and the second oldest in North America, after San Francisco’s. We explored a few shops and visited Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest commercial street in North America. I even found a geocache there!
Later, we regrouped with Beth and decided to have dinner at Ghost Ramen. After what felt like a long wait, we were finally seated, and the ramen was worth it—I finished the whole bowl!
Michael and I chose to walk back to the ship while Beth and Amber took the shuttle. It was a peaceful walk, and the Parliament Building, lit up at night, was absolutely beautiful.
Our day in Victoria was nothing short of magical. From the breathtaking beauty of Butchart Gardens to the historical charm of Craigdarroch Castle and the lively streets of Chinatown, we made the most of our extended stay. It was a perfect blend of nature, history, and local culture. Victoria’s charm and beauty left a lasting impression, making it a memorable finale to our incredible cruise adventure.
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