Castles and Cliffs: Exploring Ireland's West and County Kerry

After a wonderful time in Galway, we were on our way towards Killarney. This was probably the section of the trip I was most looking forward to because, during our honeymoon planning, this area was my favorite.

We passed so many castles and ruins along the drive. We drove up into Burren National Park, which draws its name from the Irish boíreann, or "rocky place." While in the Burren, we stopped at Poulnabrone Dolmen, a portal tomb. Archaeological excavations carried out between 1986 and 1988 revealed that at least 33 individuals—infants, children, and adults of both sexes—were buried in the chamber. These individuals lived and died during the period 4200-2900 BC.

We passed more castles, which explains why some locals refer to them as “ABC”—“Another Bloody Castle.” But honestly, I loved seeing all the ruins. One we passed, Leamaneh Castle, is said to be haunted. It was originally the stronghold of the O’Brien clan. According to folklore, the lady of the castle, Mary MacMahon, was infamous for her foul temper and reportedly had at least 25 husbands.

Leamaneh Castle

From there, we stopped at Gus O’Connor’s Pub for lunch. Michael and I split the roast beef and a half pint of Murphy’s, which was delicious. After lunch, we visited the Cliffs of Moher, which tower over the rugged coast at 509 feet. We walked up to O’Brien’s Tower, built in 1835 by Cornelius O’Brien. Inside the tower, we saw two wedding bands left by someone’s granddaughter in memory of her nana, who had dreamed of visiting Ireland but never made it.

Lizzy loved seeing all the birds at the cliffs, especially the seagulls. We let her hike a bit as we took in the views. She got very upset when she couldn’t continue on a closed trail. Even if it had been open, we wouldn’t have let her proceed, as a memorial at the entrance serves as a solemn reminder of those who have lost their lives at the cliffs.

We stopped at St. Brigid’s Well, one of the most visited holy wells in Ireland. The Aran Islanders had a deep attachment to the site, calling it “Brigid’s Bath.” From there, we made a quick stop at a church. Lizzy was particularly drawn to a statue of Mary and donated a coin to light a candle. She also enjoyed the nativity display and kept asking where the baby Jesus was.

We arrived in Killarney for dinner. At the suggestion of our bus driver, Patrick, we went to Cronin’s. This restaurant was fantastic. It was family-friendly, and they quickly brought Lizzy milk and bread while Michael and I decided what to order. The shepherd’s pie was an easy choice, and Michael paired it with Cronin’s own hard cider, which was the best cider I’ve ever had! We planned to take a quick walk around town afterward, but our music-loving toddler heard music coming from a pub and insisted we go in. Naturally, being in Ireland, we obliged and shared a beer while soaking in the atmosphere.

The next morning started a little rough with tears over spilled milk and a ruined dress, but things quickly improved. Instead of boarding a bus, we took jaunting carts through Killarney National Park. Lizzy was thrilled, repeatedly pointing and saying, “horsy!” The park is stunning, with rugged mountains, a large lake, woodlands filled with deer, and waterfalls. Our cart ride ended at Ross Castle, a 15th-century tower on the edge of Lough Leane, the ancestral home of the O’Donoghue clan.

We then boarded our bus to explore the Dingle Peninsula. Initially, I was disappointed we weren’t doing the Ring of Kerry, but Patrick assured us the views on the Dingle Peninsula were even better. He wasn’t wrong. We passed many prehistoric forts, including a “fairy fort” or Lios. These Bronze Age ringforts are surrounded by folklore, with warnings not to alter them for fear of invoking bad luck or worse.

Patrick made a special stop for Lizzy to pet lambs and explore beehive huts. These early medieval stone roundhouses are over 1,400 years old and resemble those used by monks on Skellig Michael. Lizzy adored waving to the lambs and even got to pet one, held by her Great Uncle Kevin—a first for him despite his many trips to Ireland!

The scenery was breathtaking, and Lizzy enjoyed exploring without her coat, stubborn as ever. We stopped in Dingle for lunch at Paul Geaney’s, where Michael and I had soup, and Lizzy excitedly devoured a side of fries. She wanted to visit St. Mary’s Church, but unfortunately, it had just closed. We managed to glimpse one piece of stained glass by Harry Clarke before leaving. Another highlight was Murphy’s Ice Cream, where we sampled several flavors. Lizzy chose chocolate, Michael opted for Irish Brown Bread, and I picked Irish Cream. The staff even chatted with us about American football when they spotted my Kansas City Chiefs hat.

In the evening, we visited J.M. Reidy’s, where we found a snug and enjoyed Irish coffee while Lizzy had a kid’s hot chocolate. She wanted to explore more of Killarney and eventually led us to The Grand pub, where our group was gathered. She was warmly welcomed by the college-aged musicians and started dancing and drumming on chairs. Michael and I shared a pint of Murphy’s as Lizzy soaked up the music. We didn’t stay long, though, as she was struggling to stay awake.

County Kerry, with its stunning landscapes and rich history, became my favorite part of Ireland. From jaunting carts to coastal cliffs, castles to charming pubs, every moment felt magical—especially seeing it all through Lizzy’s curious eyes.