We decided to take our pop-up camper on its first big adventure. Destination? The Boundary Waters Wilderness, specifically the Lodge of Whispering Pines in Ely, Minnesota. I had been to Ely before and loved it, and after my friend's bragging and gorgeous pictures about her trip to the Lodge of Whispering Pines, I knew I had to take my husband, Michael, and our daughter, Lizzy, to experience it for themselves. So, in July 2024, we packed our clothes and camper and set off for a week-long adventure!
As we rolled into the resort, our excitement quickly waned. Let's just say it wasn't love at first sight. Michael and I found ourselves repeatedly agreeing that this might not be a place we'd rush back to. Our campsite was arguably the worst of the six. The dirt roads were more like an obstacle course due to the recent flooding, and the mosquitoes were the size of hummingbirds (okay, a bit of an exaggeration, but still). And the flies? They were taking chunks out of us like we were on the menu. But despite all that, the place was undeniably beautiful.
Settling in
We spent our first full day lounging around the resort, reading and exploring. They have a community lodge that has various games and puzzles. Michael and I liked playing dice sequence and Lizzy liked looking through a card game called Danger Noodle (which had various wild animals on them). While Lizzy napped, I took a kayak out on Big Lake. Paddling alone, I spotted an eagle and enjoyed the beauty of the lake. Also looked for good fishing spots!
Lizzy helped around the campsite. It impressed us how much she was a big helper. If we needed the mallet to hammer in the stakes for our screen tent we would tell her to grab it and she give it to either Michael or myself. She help grab the plates, cups, and forks for dinner. And after dinnertime, she rinse the dishes. Though sometimes she was a bit over ambitious about helping with the dishes sometimes they got done two or three times.
Bears, Bears, and More Bears
The next day we made the trip into town to the North American Bear Center. Lizzy was beside herself with excitement in the parking lot, pointing at the building and yelling, "Bear! Bear!" We had to convince her that the pictures on the building weren't the actual attraction. Inside, she made a beeline for the taxidermy bears even before we paid for entry. We joined a behind-the-scenes tour where we met the resident bears—Holly, Tasha, and Ted. While Michael and I were fascinated by the stories and bear facts, Lizzy really wanted to try and pet them. It was very hard to convince a hyper toddler to stay behind the orange line. She loved watching them eat berries, eggs, and nuts.
Back inside, we explored more exhibits. Lizzy adored the Cub Den, a children's area for kids to explore. There was was a bear den that had a stuffed mama bear and her cubs. Lizzy and I chased each other around the den for a good 10 minutes or more. She also loved the sound board, pressing buttons to hear different bear noises and then imitating them with impressive accuracy.
Hiking, Swimming, and Canoeing Adventures
We took a hike around the resort on their half-mile trail to part of the lake. Lizzy's new favorite word became "rock," which she'd shout every time she saw a large boulder. Her growling during the hike made us a bit nervous since it usually meant she'd seen an animal that would make that sound, so we started talking louder to avoid any surprise encounters. Later, Lizzy and I enjoyed a refreshing swim in the lake.
After some convince from one of the owners, we went out on a family canoe trip. This marking Michael's second canoeing experience after a less-than-ideal trip in Maine. Thankfully, the calm waters made for a pleasant outing, and Lizzy, donning a perfectly-sized life jacket, had a blast. Canoeing became a daily post-nap tradition, followed by a quick swim in the lake.
I too was able to have some relaxing time by taking the kayak on trips to go fishing. Though the fishing wasn't that good. I had a lot of bites but only caught 3 small bass. So, we never got the fish dinner I was hoping for though that might have been for the best since I was very worried about having to fillet the fish myself.
Howling at the Wolves
One of our other stops in town was to the International Wolf Center, where Lizzy mastered the art of howling and other wolf noises (thanks to another sound board). She "flew" a plane to track wolves and explored interactive exhibits. We missed some of the scheduled programs but did spot a few of the resident wolves.
Chasing Waterfalls and a Pontoon Adventure
On our last full day, we hiked the Kawishiwi Falls trail. Lizzy was captivated by the roaring falls and delighted in climbing the rocks. We lunched on a bench, soaking in the sight and sound of the rushing water. Lizzy was determined to climb to the top of a large rock and she was thrilled with her accomplishment. Exploring around the falls and touching the water made her so excited and all of us thought this was the perfect outing of the last morning.
After Lizzy's nap, we had something very exciting planned for her. One of the resort owners, who had taken a shine to Lizzy, offered the pontoon boat to explore the lake. It was lovely until the flies launched their slow attack, transforming our relaxing ride into a swatting frenzy. But we did spot a loon, which felt like a quintessential Minnesota experience.
Reflecting on the Trip
Despite the rough start, relentless bugs and a few rain storms, our trip was filled with memorable moments. From peaceful kayaking and bear encounters to hiking adventures and wolf howling, we made the most of it. Lizzy's excitement and curiosity brought joy to every adventure.
Lodge of Whispering Pines, despite the rough start, Michael and I agreed that we will give it another go armed with better bug spray, of course. And maybe staying in one of their cabins or picking a different campsite.
Comments