I think everyone should do at least one trip solo. It gives you a feeling of empowerment, a chance to reconnect with yourself, and a different experience than you would have if you went with someone.
After wanting to go to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park for a few years, I decided one day that I would just go by myself. It was a bit scary at first planning a weeklong trip all by myself thousands of miles away from anyone I know. I had to plan the stops, had to book the hotels or campground, feed myself, and plan what I was going to do day-to-day. I gave my family and friends my itinerary and various phone numbers that they could contact if I didn’t check-in regularly.
So, jumping in my car late May of 2015, I made my way to the Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee to camp at Elkmont Campground. The campground was full due to Memorial Day weekend and close to the synchronous fireflies that are only located at the campground. After putting up my parents’ old backpacking tent, I walked around the campground. I talked to a few campers one who thought I might be a thru hiker of the Appalachian Trail (honestly didn’t think I looked that rough but guess so). As I continued walking around the campground, I got two geocaches which were in the ghost town of Elkmont. The town was first settled in the 1840s. The town would later be turned into a vacation destination for wealthy families, some of these buildings are still standing today. I walked a bit on and went to the Little River to stick my feet in the very cold water.
Day 1
When I woke up on the first full day, I was going to go hike Alum Cave, since it would only be open on this day because the trailhead was under construction, but it was super busy so I decided to go on to Clingmans Dome.
As I drove up to Clingmans Dome it was sunny the whole way until I got to the turn for it. There wasn’t really a view when I got there. It was also quite cold too with the fog rolling in. Clingmans Dome is the highest point in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and it is also the highest point along the Appalachian Trail at 6,643 feet. I did find the Appalachian trail while there and hiked a small section before turning around to head down via car to Newfoundland Gap overlook. This overlook is on the Tennessee and North Carolina border and gives you impressive views of the road below and the mountains all around. The highlight at this overlook is the Rockefeller Memorial that honors the Rockefeller Foundation that helped with land acquisitions to create the national park.
I decided it was time for a full-length hike and did Chimney Tops. This hike was about 2 miles to the top and gains about 1,400 feet. The trail was hard, and I had to take a lot of breaks as I climbed up the many stairs. As I made my way around the bend, I could see the rocky summit and knew I would be having lunch up there soon. (Note: as of writing this in 2022 this section of the trail is closed to the public). I scampered up to the top and enjoyed the spectacular views of the mountains. It made all the hard work climbing up worth it as I ate lunch on top of an old rocky top.
Back at the campground I rested for a bit before deciding that I had enough energy to do another hike. I decided to do Laurel Falls. I made my way to the trailhead where there were signs for bears active in the location. I was very much on alert and luckily didn’t see any. This trail was pretty with flowers that were slowly losing their bloom. I got to the waterfalls and was impressed by the 80-foot-tall fall. There were a lot of people in the area but was able to relax a bit by putting my feet in stream.
Day 2
I made it to the trailhead for the hike I was going to do for the day, Grotto Falls. The hike was 2.6-mile round trip and beautiful as you hike in an old-growth hemlock forest. The neat thing about once you get to these falls is that you can walk behind the 25-foot-high waterfall! These falls were the prettiest that I had saw during my trip.
After finishing the hike, I finished exploring around the Roaring Fork Motor Trail. This motor trail is 5.5 miles long and offers views of old-growth forest, old homestead cabins, mills, and mountain streams. My favorite cabin was the Alfred Reagan place, who painted the house all three colors that the Sears and Roebuck had. After making my way through the busy streets of Gatlinburg I stopped at the National Park Visitor Center. There was a nature trail that goes past a cabin and a waterfall called Cataract Falls.
Day 3
For today, I was going to be jumping into the car and exploring the area known as Cades Cove. Cades Cove is another motor trail and is one of the most popular destinations. This motor trail is about 11 miles and circles the cove. There are many stops along the way and I was going to take full advantage of seeing everything there was to see. As I got to the motor trail, there was so many cars that I was worried that this was not going to be enjoyable, but, luckily, I was wrong.
The first stop is John Oliver’s place. As I hiked up to the cabin, I spotted a black bear walking along the tree line! I watched the bear turn and go deeper into the woods. I then continued to make my way up to the cabin. There was a park ranger talking about the history of the cabin and how it took 65 years for them to put in windows and add a closet!
There are many churches to stop at while on the motor trail. These were probably my favorite spots to stop at because of the graveyards located at each church. These graves are quite old some even dated back to the Revolutionary War. I also spotted the first settler’s grave, John Oliver. At these various graveyards I think I saw a soldier who had served in every war.
At one of the stops, I listened to a park ranger talk about the various wildlife around the park and showed off some animal pelts. I asked him questions and he made comment about my shirt which said, “Chocolate Milk Junkie.” A few stops later he would spot me again and say, “Hi Chocolate Milk girl!”
Halfway through the motor trail is Cable Mill. When I arrived, the mill was in action, so I got to watch the mill work. I later watched a guy whittle wood to make wooden toys, he let me play with a few as he talked about the history. I stopped at many other cabins along the way. Spotted a few more bears and some deer too. The biggest cabin was the Tipton’s place because it had two rooms upstairs.
At the end of the motor trail there is a store to get some ice cream. I was looking at the options when the guy behind the counter asked me what flavor I wanted to which I replied, chocolate. He laughed and said he should have known since that’s what my shirt said.
I ended this day by having a campfire and relaxing.
Day 4
Today marks my last day at the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I decided that I would see the sunrise pop up over the mountains. It was extremely beautiful. I made may way back to my tent and took a nap until it was time to do a hike.
I had one final hike that I wanted to which was Rainbow Falls. This fall is so named because a rainbow can sometimes be formed in the mist of this 80-foot-high waterfall. Sadly, I couldn’t experience the rainbow part since it was cloudy the day I went. I ate lunch at the falls and spied a salamander in the stream.
I took my time enjoying the area, but as I decided to descend back to the trailhead it started raining. It was raining so much that I managed to lose the trail not just once but twice! I found a family group and joined them as we were lost in the woods in the pouring rain. I was very happy that I had a bright orange poncho. I was never so happy to make it back to my car.
When I got back to my tent, water had gathered around and soaked my sleeping bag so I couldn’t take a nap after my hike. I was able to move it around in the sun that was now showing through and managed to dry it before it was bedtime.
Tonight, I was going to stay up late because I was going to hike over to the Elkmont ghost town and Little River trail to see the synchronous fireflies. I sat with the large group of people that were lined up along the trail. Some people had special flashlights on so the light wouldn’t be too bright. Waiting for it to get dark some fireflies started flashing then it grew to more and more. Then they all started flashing all at the same time. It was so remarkable how they would have their own pattern but as more fireflies start joining in, the flashing would synchronize, and then entire sections of the forest would be pulsating with the light of these fireflies!!
Years after this trip, this trip still holds a special place in my heart. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is my favorite national park because I got to experience it at my pace and by myself. I would later visit this park again in September 2020 with Michael. He listened to my excitement about it and I very much wanted to share it with him because I enjoyed the May 2015 trip so much.
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